nixbox.org?

nixbox.org contains the journal of Scott Wilcox. It also gives a home to my photos, movie, book and music collections and a whole host of various code and documents both political and hacking related which live in the cellar. I've also written a few articles and mapped where I want to go.

Content

Quotation

"None are less visible than those we decide not to see"

- Stadtler Lewis

1.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs,
and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab
buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most
of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress
shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what
such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the
polymer chemistry lab, or`some other chemistrymrelated department other than
the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and
departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course
other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of
cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one
needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done,
terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if
there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in
the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what
happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob
at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is
done. This is advisable since the would- be thief should know when and if the
campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these
methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college
campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the
building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour.

1.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and
drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate
fertilizers medical supply stores
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops, The Alley
Belmont/Clark, Chgo
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores,
bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores
Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
(VERY impure) for cutting torches
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least
95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may
prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine
and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be
used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be
hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other
less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should
be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen
by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A
desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.

& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form
that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure
form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be
expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.

1.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS

1.31 NITRIC ACID

There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials: Equipment:
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins`to come out`of the end of the`retort. The liquid that forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can
result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away
from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate,
potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.

1.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car
battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of
a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably
be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.

1.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive.
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice
bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away,
ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one
would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water
and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine
powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight
container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals
formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the
remaining water.

2 EXPLOSIVES
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air
are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains
the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms:
high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In
a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to
produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of
high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm;
they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in
unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are
good examples of low order explosives.

Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are
also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.

2.1 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a
pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order
to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is
used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.

2.11 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the
smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a
confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable.
The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual
bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are
listed below:

GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers

The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more
surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades
also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black
powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of
powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited
accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb
moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon
and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply
pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or
circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one
wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since
anyone can own black powder firearms in America.

2.12 PYRODEX

Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder,
and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not
be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to
absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and
dried.

2.13 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a
fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
length- wise, and unwrapping`it like a paper towel roll. When this is done,
the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on
the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This
should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from
1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the
more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in
stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized
for their explosive powder.

2.14 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared
to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both
hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the
grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary
for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it,
since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S.

2.15 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture`of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It`is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It
is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.

2.16 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a
commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro-
glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-
Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist
of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed,
airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb
water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.

2.2 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could
conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.

2.21 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here,
only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.

2.211 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed,
or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate
surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of
the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is
corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on
whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs,
and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine
leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are
immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have
little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging
property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a
distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten
almost anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a
rather loud explosion.

Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)

1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every
basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a
semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
the cone into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about
a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown
away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives
off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way
to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be
stepped on or crushed.

2.212 MERCURY FULMINATE

Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper

1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.

This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.

2.213 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the
most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by
the all- to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it
is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine

1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a
spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of
the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less.

5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add
the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a
good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the
mixed acids and glycerine meet.
DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF
THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!
The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will
immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any
explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in
the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-
water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far
away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can
explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.

2.214 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating
the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of
a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is
impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high
explosive.

2.22 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order
explosives.

2.221 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source

1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.

2.2211 BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA'
IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE!
FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND
SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.
NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU METRIC
USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS
ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES
USED.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq.
flat window screening, 1 ft. sq. heat source
water, 3 cups alcohol, 5 pints (any kind)
sulfer, powdered, 1/2 cup (flowers wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
of sulfer, at a drug store) potassium nitrate, granulatd, 3 cups
2 buckets, both 2 gallon, one must (saltpeter, at drug stores)
be heat resistant
PROCEDURE:
1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.
2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT
BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL
INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED.
3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND
STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.
CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY,
AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.
4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING
VIGOROUSLY.
5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH
TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER AND
SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.
6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON
SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.
NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,
RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.
7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2
INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD
BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING
PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.
CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW
READY FOR USE!

2.222 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water

1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10
cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to
wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.

Addendum 4/12/91... true experience From andrew at cmu.edu (internet)
> I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I
>didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At
>first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold
>soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated,
>cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3
>and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so
>little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered
>concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I
>believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool
>or cotton cloth.
>
>Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with
>nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing
>the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled
>water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?)
>When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water
>quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose.
>
>The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned
>into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether.
>
>Warnings:
>
>All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When
>it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all
>manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in
>the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will
>happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply.
>Not for the novice.
>
> Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage. The decomposition is auto-
>catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept
>confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed
>well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl
>amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH
>NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small
>amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore
>inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case.
>
>Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away
>with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it.
>
> -Larry

Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:
1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is
recycled.
2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.
3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.
If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution,
then rinsed in fresh water.
The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration
will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced.
There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is
useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not
explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed
to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.
CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2
CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE
*End Addendum

2.223 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%

Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
================================================================================
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.

2.224 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or
sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
2.225 "RED OR WHITE POWDER" PROPELLANT
Red or White Powder" Propellant may be preppared in a simple,
safe manner. The formulation described below will result in approxi-
mately 2-1/2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and
should only be used in weapons with 1/2 in. inside diameter or less,
such as the Match Gun or the 7.62 Carbine, but not pistols.
MATERIAL REQUIRED:
-----------------
Heat source (Kitchen stove or open fire)
2 gallon metal bucket
Measuring cup (8 ounces)
Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
Metal sheet or aluminium foil (at least 18 in. sq)
Flat window screen (at least 1 ft. sq.)
Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups
White sugar (granulated) 2 cups
Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (if available)
Clear water, 3-1/2 cups

PROCEDURE:
---------
1. Place the sugar,potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat
with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and
potassium nitrate dissolve.
2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase
the flame under the mixture until it boils gently.
NOTE: The mixturewill retain the rust coloration.
3. Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is
reduced to one quarter of its original volume, then stir continuosly.
4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it
reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge.
At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source,
and spread the mass on the metal sheet.
5. While the material cools, scoreit with the spoon or spatulain in
crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch apart.
6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries,
rescore it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to aid drying.
7. When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft
but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen.
Rub the material back and forth against the screen mash with spoon or
other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-
like particles.
8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.
2.226 ACETONE PEROXIDE EXPLOSIVE
_______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| Acetone Peroxide Explosive |
| |
| Brought to you by - |
| |
| Jack The Ripper |
| |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|

This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a
detonater. I will go into this one very detailed.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-

Name Source
---- ------
Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleach, Drug Stores
and Hair supply Stores
Acetone Hardware Stores and Drug
Stores
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid
boiled until white fumes
appear.
Eye Dropper or Syringe w/ glass tube
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)
Glass Containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper Towels
All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your
own purposes.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container
and mix thoroughly.
2) Cool it by plaicing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and
water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.
3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated ulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by
drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the
the temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the temperature rises
don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then
start adding it again.
4) Now that you got all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for
another 5 minutes.
5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.
6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the
once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours.
7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with a
rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water
over them, letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the
paper towel into the jar.
8) Select a container and allow them to dry.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonater
that I have ever encountered. It works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing
with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as
Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it
refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effects it should
be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate
almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that
matter.
Later...
Jack The Ripper

2.23 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.

2.231 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
ammonium nitrate.

MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and
it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could
result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more
ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or,
ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold
when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the
temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps
4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals
more stable and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it
should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since
ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium
nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.

2.232 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-hazard
method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since
it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to
shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a
tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.

2.233 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps
the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.

* Addendum From hayes.ims.alaska.edu (internet)
>
> Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are
>mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful
>commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is
>cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is
>dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound.
>To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk
>truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to
>most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a
>dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier
>to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer.
>
> ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive
>to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO.
>Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters
>include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives,
>dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive.
>The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water
>susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and
>becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with
>borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low
>density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no
>good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low.
>Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more
>effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it
>is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds
>to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some
>commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises
>power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive.
>
> Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of
>ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is
>extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends
>a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More
>oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and
>excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is
>oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as
>the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with
>various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from
>being absorbed.
> Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement,
>either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus,
>a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather
>than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong
>casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite
>well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered:
>a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the
>cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big
>bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel
>oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a
>cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture.
>This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The
>military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it
>is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more
>powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability,
>and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They
>also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then
>hey, who doesn't....
>
> Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual
>mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual"
>or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This
>is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
>demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.
>
> Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the
>manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture
>and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to
>manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those
>who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least
>in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no
>criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need
>a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities
>of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion
>to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old
>folks homes, okay.
>
> Dean Syta, Civil Engineer at large.
*End Addendum

2.234 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,
and it is filtered.

2.2341 T.N.T. II By THE SCREAMER

Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar
all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25
millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the
great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be
poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in
containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an
electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are
other methods.
Preparation of TNT

1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker,
prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric
acid (percentages are on a weig ht ratio rather than volume).

2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed
in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50
degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and
the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will
begin to form on the top of the acid.
6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and
cooled to 45 degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will
sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining
acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe.

7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this
temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees
C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this,
the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the
bottom.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished
slowly and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid
solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104
degrees C., and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and
held there for a half hour.
12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.
13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the
TNT will begin to solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so
that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good
quality TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT,
and must be used as such.
DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for
this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.

2.235 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put
the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.

2.236 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.

2.237 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10
ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch.
Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.

2.238 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant
would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric
acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and
heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of
it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.

2.239 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than
that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric
acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when
placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear
household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into
a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add
clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.
The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate.

2.2391 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do
not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains
undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a
stopper and glass pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.

2.2392 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other
explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive.
It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily
detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to
produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers,
the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution,
until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker
stops forming.
Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The
precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead
acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it.
Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.

2.2393 ASTROLITE By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book
'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l
Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!
I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes
only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
fucking school to kingdom scum!
Astrolite
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant
research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than
TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite
G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that
the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting
hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be
careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
Misc. info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.

2.24 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be
used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
2.241 THERMITE
Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both
finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the
oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat
produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it
is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by
weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The
other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can
be ignited.

2.242 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large
glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in
the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.
Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave
a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the
bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on
impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the
site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown

2.243 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the
very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays
onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside
with plastic inside
conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid
eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a
cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or
enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on
top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.

2.244 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would
be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used,
and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and
expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.
In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized
fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting
of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the
expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with
gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is
less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed
of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective
way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of
the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal
should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene,
or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
Addendum 4/12/91:
During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only
to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar
to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the
fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to
detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to
burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation.
Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into
fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed
in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding
rooms, rendering it structurally unsound.
*End addendum

2.3 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take
would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do
whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb
with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device,
and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be
necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it
being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and
build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next
section.

2.31 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in
terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.

2.32 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are
more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being
caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to
hide.

2.321 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse
in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse
is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It
is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00
for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers
because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or
lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system
can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such
things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse
system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains
its simplicity. One such method is described below:

MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„ = 2.5 seconds per
inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds

Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„Ã„
= 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH,
AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure
not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker
faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.
Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|

The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In
turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
burning match heads.

2.3211 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work
with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die
for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
through very easily.
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and
hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion.
To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled
out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

2.322 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made
initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a
cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are
also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package
of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the
way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A
cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ | |
| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
no. 11 |_______|
percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing
cap :
here |__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
| |
|_________________|

When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a
small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.

2.323 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted
in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation
sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best
electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting
caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in
packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use
them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military
squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they
explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high
explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.

2.324 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed

2.324 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/_________ \
\ ( Hg )| /
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This
type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a
swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the
switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or
squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed in
your face by an explosion.

2.325 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips
of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between
them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire
can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When
the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current
to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the
contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to
explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.

Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the
spring also conducts electricity.

2.326 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with
radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could
possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money
involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such
an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is
visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach
the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car,
or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the
rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the
contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times
with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he
controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the
device became a detonator).
2.327 MINI-COMPOUND DETONATOR'S
_______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| Mini-Compound Detonater's |
| |
| Brought to you by- |
| |
| Jack The Ripper |
| |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|

This is basically a tutorial in making detonaters, and there are a few
rules, that I would like each and every one of you to follow. Making detonaters
is very very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonaters is for them to
be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the detonaters I am
telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on a
larger scale.

-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or Hardware
tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These Stores
tubes must also be closed at one end.
A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX RDX Article 3 this
(amount depends on how many detonaters you intend to issue of "Anarchy
make) or PETN can be substituted here. Today" PETN is the
center filling of
detonating cords.
A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Acetone Peroxide
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. Article 1 this issue
of "Anarchy Today"
An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black
powder.
A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores
also please be safe considering a few of these
detonaters may detonate when being compressed, so
take the neccessary precautions such as safty glasses
etc...)

-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonaters to an unsafe level so when
handling the primary ad secondary and ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a
bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your
shower on hot and leave it on!
1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell
casing before use. Then let the wax cool down.
2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
*GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly
and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.
3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a
column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into
the 1 inch shell casing.
4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the
secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of
secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a
height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.
5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal
the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.

-=-=-=-=-
-DIAGRAM-
-=-=-=-=-
- ++++++
| |@@@@|
| |****|
| |****|
| |####|
1 INCH------< |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |----|
- |====|

+-+-+
+Key+
+-+-+

@ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)
* = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)
# = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)
- = Two drops of wax on Bottom
+ = Tape covering top
= = The bottom of shell casing
| = Sides of .22 Magnum Shell

-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-

These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger
version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use
is for minature hand grenades and other small explosives. The next issue of
"Anarchy Today" will cover various things such as explosive candles, etc...

Later...
Jack The Ripper

2.33 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.

2.331 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely
to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft
in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition
of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is
determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the
fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end

A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed
with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A
chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few
bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the
first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party
supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the
fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are
possible.

Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By
dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling
water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton
string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of
the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder
or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is
then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed
to dry.

2.332 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if
it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By
simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and
using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made.
The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an
hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This

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