#####################################################################
#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#
#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~<>->>Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III Dated 11/09/1990!!!<<-<>~#
#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#
#####################################################################
Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
#####################################################################
#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#
#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~<>->>Jolly Roger's Cookbook Version III Dated 11/09/1990!!!<<-<>~#
#~<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>-<>~#
#~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~#
#####################################################################
Hello! Welcome to the Jolly Roger's Cookbook III! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files,
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.
Thanks for taking the time to read this file, by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.
1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files withoutmy expressed permission, then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find, urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also, will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words, be careful who you give this collection to. Of,
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself, because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates, and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!), then STAY COOL with it.
2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However, I have decided against that
for these reasons:
a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.
So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.
3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.
4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for tha matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!
That is all for now. If I ever have to update this, it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=Notes for Version 2.0=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Ok... here it is... long awaited v2.0.... what a bitch it was for me to
put this shit together. Hell, over 6 months to put the update shit
together. Anyway, response was cool, nobody fucked with the rulez above.
I am glad. This allows me to continue the updates. You should find it
worth the wait.
God, there is so much more to do. As you can probably see, this database
is getting quite huge. And I have not even begun to tap the resources I
have available to me. I can easily over the next year or so make this
thing grow to 1600k or more..... so as long as I DON'T find this on a
p/d bbs, and I DO see it being spread around the proper channels, as
LONG as you guys keep bugging me for an update, and finally, as long as
the rulez above are kept,I shall continue.
What you have in your disk drive right now is some of the most dangerous
knowledge ever unleashed on the computer underground. Use it wisely.
The really JUICY stuff will come in Cookbook v3.0, but let's see how
this one goes across, shall we? The Blotto box should be enough to see
how responsible you all are.....................
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -----------The Jolly Roger
note to all warring pirates and the so-called "groups"
(You know who you are...):
FUCK YOU! You are all assholes. Acting like fucking babies like trading
software was your fucking life or something. Like you have some big name
or something. Do you realize that nobody gives a flying fuck about you
in the real world? I have been a pirate for over 10 years, and have over
4000 ST programs, over 2000 IBM programs, over 2500 Macintosh programs,
and over 500 Amiga programs (& I do not even own an Amiga!).... and you
do not see me kissing ass on the bbs's, or making a deal out of someone
not "liking" me..... boo-fucking-hoo!! I really do not care. You see,
the difference between you and me is that I do this for fun. I see no
other reason to pursue a "hobby" but FOR fun. I hate the fucking
politics & shit. I give my stuff freely. It all comes back to me.
It just makes me sick when I am on the bbs's and I see these little baby
games about who did what, and who stole what loader, or re-crack, or
whatever. I AM AN original pirate. 1st generation. Not anything like you
baby-shit assholes. Excuse me but I had this boiling in me for a long
time. The ST world is so small that what little we do have we destroy
from within. And we blame Jack for it. Fuck, maybe that is the only
thing we agree on. Anyway, where is the hacking spirit? The giving? The
free will? Why all of the fucking ego's? It should be obvious by now
that I have no interest whatsoever in ego-tripping. You can like me or
hate me. But I will always be here. --------------Jolly Roger
*****************************************************************
******************** Notes for Version III! *********************
*****************************************************************
Ah..version III. Well, I never thought for a minute that version
II would turn out to be so popular! Well, I am proud to announce
version III, and can assure you that a version IV is in the works!
As a student, however, I cannot say when it will be ready...but
what the hell...it will be a long time, I am sure, before you run
out of "toys" to play with.
Lots of interesting new reading for you in this version! A Special
thanks to CREDITMAN, who lives in the UK and contributed an
excellent article on carding in the UK. It is great reading.
Now, I would like to say a few words to those who insist on
yanking my chain (or is it dick?) in the message bases here in the
U.S.: "Whatever, dudes!"
Now that was a few words, eh? Ok, I am debating on a new format
for Cookbook IV...something with easier access. Hell, this index
idea worked just fine when the cookbook was small, but now it is
getting quite large and the articles are getting quite
numerous...and--who knows? My laziness tells me to stick with it.
I just might do that!
Well, the files spilled over onto two disks, so I figured I would
include some ST-specific "goodies". They are in a file on disk B
called "Goodie.Bag" and contain a few rarities and a few
essentials. Some will find most interesting, most will find some
interesting, a few may find none interesting. Oh, well.
If anybody has any comments (there always is a few slags--take
your best shot!) then drop me a line in the usual places that one
can find me. If you do not know where those places are, then I am
sorry. It just wasn't meant to be. Ha Ha!
All who oppose me and my ideas and/or the group that I participate
in can bugger off. Sure, yeah, I steal a lot of things--I am a
pirate after all. but so do you, and don't forget it. It is
ridiculous to call a thief a thief when it is a thief doing the
accusing. Grow up. This Cookbook is done for no other reason but
to share with EVERYONE ELITE some of the underground and often
illegal as hell information that I have gathered, researched, and
labored to locate, type, and write/compose. At least give me
credit for that. Anyone whom I call asshole deserves it in my eyes
for only one reason: there is not ONE DAMN THING redeeming that I
can find to compliment them on!! For example, Automation slagged
me for the R.C.A Slag Show II, I turned around and told them to
piss off on that, and then said that their cd's are getting
better. What kind of "kid" (a 24 year old one) would do that
anyway? Certainly not the TOI, that's for sure! Oh, well, fuck it
anyways. We are all going to die in Iraq soon enough anyway....-
Enjoy and spread! Contribute if you can! Information should be
free (that's why I turned down an offer to publish portions of
this thing!)!!
----------------------Jolly Roger
Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
m problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful, but when it does work, the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
-------------Introduction-------------
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
---------Construction and Use---------
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.
------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:
> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.
Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and are more dificult to come by.
Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...
Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:
> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
---------Jolly Roger
How to make a CO2 bomb by the Jolly Roger
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger-
Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger-
Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly Roger-
Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
-Jolly Roger-
Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
----
| |
| |
| |
| <
----
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)
Have Fun! -Jolly Roger-
Do ya hate school? by The Jolly Roger
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
- USE YOUR IMAGINATION! -Jolly Roger-
Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
-Jolly Roger-
Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
-Jolly Roger-
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!
Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
Small amount of sugar
Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
-Jolly Roger-
The easiest way to hotwire cars by the Jolly Roger
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off! -Jolly Roger-
How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
How to make a fertilizer bomb by Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Ingredients:
- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
-Jolly Roger-
Diskette Bombs by the Jolly Roger
You need:
- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
- Let it dry
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger-
Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down! -Jolly Roger-
Fuses brought to you by The Jolly Roger
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar
Procedure:
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
- moisten powder to form a paste
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
- Check the burn rate!!!
How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:
Materials needed:
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape
Procedure:
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.
Purification:
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
- Remove any crystals that appear
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
Exploding lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
that it touches the filament!
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
else YOU will be the victim!!)
- Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
used by the victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle
Procedure:
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater
- repeat to make as many as you want
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
-Jolly Roger-
Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon
Procedure:
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Chemical Equivalency list by the Jolly Roger
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
)!(
Cap ^ )!(
)!(
)!(
)!(
^^^^^---)!(------------->
^ 100K
!
! <Input
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
------^^^^^^^^^------------
---------
RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.
For more info:
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.
-Jolly Roger-
How to make a landmine by The Jolly Roger
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
-Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail by the Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
N*X NXX-XXXX
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
Nelson Guerettef you wanna read more about this, read
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
-Jolly Roger-
Phone Systems Tutorial part II by The Jolly Roger
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
heirarchy, & switching equipment.
Operators
~~~~~~~~~
There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
<Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
INTERCEPT Operator:
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
OTHER Operators:
And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
Basic Alliance Teleconferencing Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
Introduction:
------------
This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance
Teleconferencing Systems.... it has many sections and for best use should
be printed out...enjoy...
Alliance:
--------
Alliance Teleconferencing is an independant company which allows the general
public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have
been floating apound that Alliance is a subsidary of AT&T.
Well, they are wrong. As stated above, Alliance is an entirely independant
company. They use sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many
people at once.
The Number:
---------
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not
in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only
residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This,
however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The numbers for alliance are
as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (chicago)
-1001 (los angeles)
-1002 (chicago)
-1003 (houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)
The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and i have stated them.
However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definately known.
Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.
Dialing:
-------
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states
can access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your
residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without
having it billed to ones house. They are as follows:
1) Dialing through a PBX
2) Incorporating a Blue Box
3) Billing to a loop
4) Billing to a forwarded call
I am sure there are many more but these are the four i will deal with.
Dialing through a PBX:
------- ------- - ---
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX.
Simply call one in a state that has Alliance, input the PBX's code,
dial 9 for an outside line and then dial alliance.
An example of this would be:
PBX: 800-241-4911
When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.
Code: 1234
After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.
Using a Blue Box:
----- - ---- ---
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box.
The following procedure is how to box a conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099
When the party answers hit 2600hz. This will cause the fone company's
equipment to think that you have hung up. You will hear a <beep><kerchunk>
You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency
and dial:
KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
KP=KP tone on Blue Box
x=variable between 1 and 3
ST=ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her
switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing
is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
------- -- - ----
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a
loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk
to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be
<very> usefull to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going
through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this
tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers
tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a
number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then
call that number to receive voice verification.
Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges.
Thus, the conference is billed to the loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
------- -- ---- ----------
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by
the original location, then forwarded. The original location will
hang up if 2600hz is received from only ond end of the line.
Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered,
you would receive the original location's dial tone.
Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second
type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers
simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will
then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz
from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the
conference will be billed to the original residence.
These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
----- ---------
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their
way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?'
Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance
you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the
conference size and inout another or hit '#' to continue.
You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from
having your own roaring conference going strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
------- -- ---------
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa=area code
pre=prefix
suff=suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call
will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key.
This will add them to the conference.
Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
------- ---- ----------
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key.
Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies.
To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
------------ -------
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the
# 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after,
you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
<note>:Transfer of control is often not available. When you
receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.
Muted Conferences:
----- -----------
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly
sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted
eavesdroppers from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
------- -------- ---------
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
------ ---- ----------
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including
yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds
simply hang up. Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
--- -------- --------- ---------
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having
a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no
way harmful, just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
-------- --- -------
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can.
But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's
really a large hastle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply
does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over.
The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen
register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the
conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons
number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because
all you did was answer your fone.
<note>:Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance
recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those
commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow
phreaks of the world!!!
(written by the Trooper)
Aqua Box Plans by Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.
The Lock In Trace
------------------
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
Materials
----------
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug
into a light bulb.
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.
The central box)
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to
plug the aqua box into)
Some creativity and easy work.
*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
Procedure
---------
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock
you in with.
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power
is being drained from the line.
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.
That box is your ticket out of this.
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be
the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy.
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.
Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at
the same time.
Happy boxing and stay free! ------------Jolly Roger
Hindenberg Bomb by the Jolly Roger
Needed:1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum FoilL
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen.
Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----
AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK.....
Courtesy of the Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:
Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
PREFACE:
THIS ARTICLE WILL FOCUS PRIMARILY ON THE STANDARD WESTERN ELECTRIC SINGLE-
SLOT COIN TELEPHONE (AKA FORTRESS FONE) WHICH CAN BE DIVIDED INTO 3 TYPES:
- DIAL-TONE FIRST (DTF)
- COIN-FIRST (CF): (IE, IT WANTS YOUR $ BEFORE YOU RECEIVE A DIAL TONE)
- DIAL POST-PAY SERVICE (PP): YOU PAYAFTER THE PARTY ANSWERS
DEPOSITING COINS (SLUGS):
-------------------------
ONCE YOU HAVE DEPOSITED YOUR SLUG INTO A FORTRESS, IT IS SUBJECTED TO A
GAMUT OF TESTS. THE FIRST OBSTACAL FOR A SLUG IS THE
MAGNETIC TRAP. THIS WILL STOP ANY LIGHT-WEIGHT MAGNETIC SLUGS AND COINS.
IF IT PASSES THIS, THE SLUG IS THEN CLASSIFIED AS A NICKEL, DIME, OR
QUARTER. EACH SLUG IS THEN CHECKED FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE AND WEIGHT. IF THESE
TESTS ARE PASSED, IT WILL THEN TRAVEL THROUGH A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER
MAGNET AS APPROPRIATE. THESE MAGNETS SET UP AN EDDY CURRENT EFFECT WHICH
CAUSES COINS OF THE APPROPRIATE CHARACTERISTICS TO SLOW DOWN SO THEY
WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT TRAJECTORY. IF ALL GOES WELL, THE COIN WILL FOLLOW THE
CORRECT PATH (SUCH AS BOUNCING OFF OF THE NICKEL ANVIL) WHERE IT WILL
HOPEFULLY FALL INTO THE NARROW ACCEPTED COIN CHANNEL.
THE RATHER ELABORATE TESTS THAT ARE PERFORMED AS THE COIN TRAVELS DOWN THE
COIN CHUTE WILL STOP MOST SLUGS AND OTHER UNDESIRABLE COINS, SUCH AS
PENNIES, WHICH MUST THEN BE RETRIEVED USING THE COIN RELEASE LEVER.
IF THE SLUG MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVES THE GAMUT, IT WILL THEN STRIKE THE
APPROPRIATE TOTALIZER ARM CAUSING A RATCHET WHEEL TO ROTATE ONCE FOR EVERY
5-CENT INCREMENT (EG, A QUARTER WILL CAUSE IT TO ROTATE 5 TIMES).
THE TOTALIZER THEN CAUSES THE COIN SIGNAL OSCILLATOR TO READOUT A DUAL-
FREQUENCY SIGNAL INDICATING THE VALUE DEPOSITED TO ACTS (A COMPUTER) OR THE
TSPS OPERATOR. THESE ARE THE SAME TONES USED BY PHREAKS IN THE INFAMOUS RED
BOXES. FOR A QUARTER, 5 BEEP TONES ARE
OUTPULSED AT 12-17 PULSES PER SECOND (PPS). A DIME CAUSES 2 BEEP TONES AT
5 - 8.5 PPS WHILE A NICKEL CAUSES ONE BEEP TONE AT 5 - 8.5 PPS. A BEEP
CONSISTS OF 2 TONES: 2200 + 1700 HZ. A RELAY IN THE FORTRESS CALLED THE "B
RELAY" (YES, THERE IS ALSO AN 'A RELAY') PLACES A CAPACITOR ACROSS THE
SPEECH CIRCUIT DURING TOTALIZER READOUT TO PREVENT THE "CUSTOMER" FROM
HEARING THE RED BOX TONES. IN OLDER 3 SLOT PHONES: ONE BELL
(1050-1100 HZ) FOR A NICKEL, TWO BELLS FOR A DIME, AND ONE GONG (800 HZ) FOR A
QUARTER ARE USED INSTEAD OF THE MODERN DUAL-FREQUENCY TONES.
=============
=TSPS & ACTS=
=============
WHILE FORTRESSES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CO OF THE AREA, ALL TRANSACTIONS ARE
HANDLED VIA THE TRAFFIC SERVICE POSITION SYSTEM (TSPS). IN AREAS THAT
DO NOT HAVE ACTS, ALL CALLS THAT REQUIRE OPERATOR ASSISTANCE, SUCH AS
CALLING CARD AND COLLECT, ARE AUTOMATICALLY ROUTED TO A TSPS OPERATOR
POSITION. IN AN EFFORT TO AUTOMATE FORTRESS
SERVICE, A COMPUTER SYSTEM KNOWN AS AUTOMATED COIN TOLL SERVICE (ACTS) HAS
BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANY AREAS. ACTS LISTENS TO THE RED BOX SIGNALS FROM THE
FONES AND TAKES APPROPRIATE ACTION. IT IS ACTS WHICH SAYS, "TWO DOLLARS PLEASE
(PAUSE) PLEASE DEPOSIT TWO DOLLARS FOR THE NEXT TEN SECONDS" (AND OTHER
VARIATIONS). ALSO, IF YOU TALK FOR MORE THAN THREE MINUTES AND THEN HANG-UP,
ACTS WILL CALL BACK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY. ACTS IS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR
AUTOMATED CALLING CARD SERVICE. ACTS ALSO PROVIDE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR
CRAFTSPEOPLE (REPAIRMEN SPECIALIZING IN FORTRESSES). FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS A
COIN TEST WHICH IS GREAT FOR TUNING UP RED BOXES. IN MANY AREAS THIS TEST CAN
BE ACTIVATED BY DIALING 09591230 AT A FORTRESS (THANKS TO KARL MARX FOR THIS
INFORMATION). ONCE ACTIVATED IT WILL REQUEST THAT YOU DEPOSIT VARIOUS COINS.
IT WILL THEN IDENTIFY THE COIN AND OUTPULSE THE APPROPRIATE RED BOX
SIGNAL. THE COINS ARE USUALLY RETURNED WHEN YOU HANG UP.
TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ACTUALLY MONEY IN THE FONE, THE CO INITIATES A
"GROUND TEST" AT VARIOUS TIMES TO DETERMINE IF A COIN IS ACTUALLY IN THE
FONE. THIS IS WHY YOU MUST DEPOSIT AT LEAST A NICKEL IN ORDER TO USE A RED
BOX!
GREEN BOXES:
------------
PAYING THE INITIAL RATE IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX (ON CERTAIN FORTRESSES)
LEFT A SOUR TASTE IN MANY RED BOXER'S MOUTHS THUS THE GREEN BOX WAS INVENTED.
THE GREEN BOX GENERATES USEFUL TONES SUCH AS COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND
RINGBACK. THESE ARE THE TONES THAT ACTS OR THE TSPS OPERATOR WOULD SEND TO
THE CO WHEN APPROPRIATE. UNFORTUNATELY, THE GREEN BOX CANNOT BE USED AT A
FORTRESS STATION BUT IT MUST BE USED BY THE CALLED PARTY.
HERE ARE THE TONES:
COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 HZ
COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 HZ
RINGBACK 700 + 1700 HZ
BEFORE THE CALLED PARTY SENDS ANY OF THESE TONES, AN OPERATOR RELEASED
SIGNAL SHOULD BE SENT TO ALERT THE MF D